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A creamy Easter paskha with cooked egg yolks

Easter paskha No 3 / Lihavõttepasha nr 3

Some of my American readers may have noticed a recipe for paskha in the April 2010 issue of Saveur. Saveur describes paskha as "a rich, airy sweetened cheese that's traditionally served in Russian homes to break the meat- and dairy-free Lenten fast. ... Made with a Russian farmers' cheese called tvorog, as well as cream, egg yolks, butter, and sugar, the treat is flavoured with vanilla and studded with golden raisins. Then the pashka is pressed into a mold and chilled to set." Although it's not traditionally Estonian, it's pretty popular here.

I happen to love pashka, and have been making it for, well, ages :) I've shared one of my favourite pashka recipes before, but there are several ways of making this dessert. There are cooked versions and uncooked paskhas, paskhas containing raw eggs, cooked eggs or no eggs. Here's one (out of three!) I made last Spring - it's uncooked, contains cooked egg yolks - and is thus quite similar to the recipe printed in this month's Saveur.

Highly recommended. The Saveur article recommends using the Friendship brand farmers cheese instead of tvorog, if you can't get hold of the real thing.

Paskha with Egg Yolks
(Kohupiimapasha keedetud munarebudega)
Serves 8 to 10

75 g unsalted butter, softened
125 g caster sugar
2 hard-boiled egg yolks
500 g curd cheese
100 ml whipping cream, whipped until soft peaks form
0.5 tsp vanilla extract
3 Tbsp candied orange peel
4 Tbsp chopped almonds

toasted almond slices and orange segments, to garnish

Cream the butter with about one third of the eggs. Press the egg yolks through the sieve and add to the butter. Add vanilla extract, the rest of the sugar, curd cheese, whipped cream, candied orange peel and chopped almonds.
Line a pashka tin or a large sieve with a wet cheesecloth square. Spoon the curd cheese mixture into the pashka mold and place the whole thing on top of another bowl or over the sink, allowing the liquid to drain (depending whether you want to catch the whey* or not).
Refrigerate in a cool place for at least 24 hours.
Turn onto a serving dish, remove the cheesecloth. Garnish with toasted almonds and orange segments.

* This can be used instead of milk or water when making yeast buns.
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Estonian Curd Cheese Cookies



If Easter in some parts of the world is all about chocolate (no names named here :)), then in Estonia it's all about chicken eggs and curd cheese desserts. There's pashka, of course, on our Easter table - a delicious curd cheese pudding borrowed from our Eastern neighbour. But there will be other curd cheese desserts as well. Here's a recipe for some moreish curd cheese cookies that would be perfect for Easter table.

Finding curd cheese ("kohupiim" in Estonian) is not so difficult. If there's a Russian or Polish shop nearby, then ask for "tvorog/tvarog". In Finland, look out for "rahka". If you can't find curd cheese, then try substituting dry ricotta or farmer's cheese.

Estonian curd cheese cookies
(Mõnusad kohupiimaküpsised)
About 3 dozen cookies

200 g dry curd cheese
100 g butter
100 g sugar
300 g plain flour (about 2 cups)
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp vanilla sugar
a pinch of salt

Place all ingredients into the bowl of your food processor and process until you've got fine crumbs. Transfer the mixture into a bowl and press into a dough, using your hands. Take batches of dough and roll into pieces about the size of your thumb (about 5 cm long, 1,5 cm wide). Place onto a lined baking sheet and flatten slightly with a back of a fork.
Brush with beaten egg and sprinkle poppy seeds, pearl sugar, caraway seeds - or whatever else you fancy - on top.
Bake in a pre-heated 200 C oven for about 15 minutes, until the cookies are light golden brown.
Cool and serve.
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Georgian recipes: walnut and egg salad

Georgian egg salad / Gruusia munasalat

In the early days of my foodblogging (we're talking about summer 2005 here), I ended up defending the joys of Georgian cuisine on Kuidaore's picture-perfect blog (note we're talking about this Georgia and not that Georgia here!). I'm still wondering where I got the courage from!! Still, we eat Georgian food with some regularity at home -simply because it's tasty and different, and I'll be sharing some Georgian recipes with you over the next few weeks. I've recently given two cookery classes focusing on this fascinating cuisine, and I do hope you enjoy the recipes as much we enjoyed the finished dishes!

There are already some Georgian recipes on Nami-Nami. I wrote about fried Suluguni cheese earlier this week, and there's a recipe for khatchapuri cheese bread and another for chakhohbili chicken and herb stew. Today I'm sharing a recipe for Georgian Egg Salad (azelila), seasoned with lots of fresh herbs and ground walnuts. It's creamy and flavoursome, and a great way to use up all those boiled eggs that you have over the Easter holidays! Walnuts are essential for this dish - as well to many other dishes characteristic to Georgian cuisine.

We served this on lightly toasted ciabatta-slices (see photo below) - not terribly authentic, but this salad is excellent on crostini, I think.

If you are interested in learning more about Georgian food, then I can highly recommend Darra Goldstein's excellent "The Georgian Feast: The Vibrant Culture and Savory Food of the Republic of Georgia" (on Amazon.com/on Amazon.co.uk). Many of the recipes I'll be sharing are based on her book, though not exclusively. There is also a nice chapter on Georgian food in Nigella Lawson's "Feast: Food that Celebrates Life" (on Amazon.com/on Amazon.co.uk).

Georgian Egg Salad
(Gruusia munasalat)
Serves 4 to 6 (or more, if served as canapés)

Georgian egg salad / Gruusia munasalat

4 large eggs
4 Tbsp butter, softened
4 Tbsp finely chopped walnuts (pestle and mortar is best)
2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh dill
2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh coriander/cilantro
2 Tbsp finely chopped spring onions (white parts only)
a pinch of salt

pomegranate seeds, to garnish

Hard-boil the eggs, then cool quickly under cold running water and peel. Put into a medium-sized bowl and "chop" until mushy with a fork. Using the fork, work in the softened butter - you want a reasonably creamy mixture.
Add the fresh herbs and finely chopped walnuts, stir until combines. Season with salt.
Place into a bowl and garnish with ruby pomegranate seeds.
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Georgian recipes: fried Suluguni cheese

Fried Suluguni cheese / Praetud Suluguni juust

This recipe is mostly for my readers in countries where you can easily buy the Georgian Suluguni cheese. That pretty much means former USSR, as well as countries with sizeable number of Georgian or Russian migrants (look for "Russian shops" then). Although there are other cheeses that can be fried like this, they wouldn't taste the same, so I'm not even going to suggest any other alternatives.

If you are based in Tallinn, then please look for the cheese at Tallinn Central Market, where several vendors sell white cheese rounds, weighing about 1 kg/2 pounds each, at the main market hall. There are two main makers - the Kehra cheese being slightly saltier and the Vaida cheese slightly milder in flavour. It's recommended you buy the whole round - use half of it for for this recipe and the rest for making khatchapuri, the Georgian cheese bread.

Fried Suluguni cheese
(Praetud Suluguni juust)
Serves six to eight as nibble

500 g Suluguni cheese
2 Tbsp plain flour
butter, for frying
finely chopped fresh mint or tarragon

Cut the cheese into thick slices, dust with flour.
Heat butter on a heavy frying pan over a moderate heat. Fry the cheese slices on both sides, until golden brown.
Sprinkle with fresh herbs and serve at once.

For a gluten-free alternative: omit the flour (you won't get as nice and crispy finish, but it'll taste as gorgeous).
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A Simple Goat's Cheese and Beet Soup

Beetroot and goat cheese soup / Peedi-kitsejuustusupp

Remember I promised to start a Beetroot Dish of the Month feature? Well, it's time for this month's beetroot recipe :) A very simple, yet delicious beetroot soup. The potato acts as a thickener, and the goat's cheese gives the soup a wonderful silkiness and smoothness.

As always, I LOVE the colour :)

Goat's Cheese and Beetroot Soup
(Peedi-kitsejuustusupp)
Serves 4 to 6

500 g beetroot, peeled and cut into small chunks
3 potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
1 onion, peeled
1.5 litres vegetable bouillon
150 g goat's milk cream cheese (f.ex. Soignon), at room temperature
1 tsp dried herbs (I used Meira's Mediterranean herb mix)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring the bouillon into boil, add the vegetables and cook for 15-20 minutes, until vegetables are soft. Blend until smooth and creamy (f.ex. in a blender or food processor).
Return the puree into the saucepan and add the goat's cheese, spoonful by spoonful, as well as any seasoning. Simmer for another 5 minutes.
Serve with crusty bread and garnished with fresh herbs.

OTHER BEETROOT SOUP RECIPES @ NAMI-NAMI:
Dashing Coconut and Beetroot Soup (January 2010)
Creamy Beetroot Soup with Horseradish (January 2008)
Beetroot Soup with Goat Cheese (November 2007)
Delicious Vegetarian Borscht (September 2007)
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Mascarpone and curd cheese cake

Curd cheese cake / Mõnus kohupiimakook mascarponega
Every now and then I get a recipe translation request from somebody somewhere, who has spotted a recipe either on my Flickr photostream or on my Estonian recipe site. Yesterday Liza P. wrote me, asking for a translation of this recipe. Having translated the recipe and ready to click on the "Send Mail" button, I thought I'll blog about it instead. Easter is around the corner and various curd cheese/cream cheese desserts are traditionally enjoyed here in Estonia, so it's actually a very suitable time to blog about this cake anyway.

The recipe is from our friend Heli, though I've tweaked it a bit. Note it uses a popular Estonian cake mixture (Juubeli tordipulber), but any yellow cake mix should do.

This is for you, Liza ;)

Mascarpone and curd cheese cake
(Mõnus kohupiimakook mascarponega)
20-30 pieces

Crumb mixture:
450 g packet of Juubeli cake mix (ordinary yellow cake)
100 ml plain flour (55 grams)
150 g cold butter

Mascarpone-curd cheese filling:

500 g curd cheese (NOT the creamy type)
250 g mascarpone cheese
6 medium eggs
100 ml sugar (85 grams)
2 Tbsp cornflour
200 ml whipping cream (35% fat content)
2 tsp vanilla extract
3 Tbsp candied orange peel/zest

Line a deep 25x35 cm cake tin with parchment paper.
For the crumb mix, mix everything with a knife or in a food processor until fine crumbs form.
Scatter 2/3 of the crumb mixture into the cake tin, press with your hand until flattened.
For the filling, mix all ingredients until combined. Gently pour over the crumb base.
Scatter the rest of the crumb mixture on top.
Bake in pre-heated 200 C oven, then turn the heat to 180 C. Bake for 30 minutes, until the cake is lovely golden brown on top. /The filling will be wobbly, but it sets when it cools down/
Cool completely, then transfer onto a serving tray and cut into squares.
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Scottish Lemon Cake

Scottish lemon sponge / Šoti sidrunikeeks

I've been busy testing recipes for two Georgian cookery classes taking place this week, hence the silence on the blog. I cannot yet blog about any of the Georgian dishes, so instead you'll get a recipe for this simple lemon cake. It's based on a recipe from a Scottish food writer, Claire MacDonald. It's a nice, lemony, moist and crumbly small cake that's perfect with a cup of tea on a cold afternoon. We still have LOTS of snow over here, so cakes like this are totally justified and even more, needed :)

You'll get a small cake that feeds five to six.

Scottish Lemon Sponge Cake
(Mahlane šoti sidrunikeeks)

120 g unsalted butter, softened
150 g caster sugar
150 g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
a pinch of salt
2 large eggs, lightly whisked
5 Tbsp milk (75 ml)
grated zest of 1 lemon

Lemon syrup:
1.5-2 lemons, juiced
6 Tbsp confectioners sugar/icing sugar

Cream the butter and sugar until pale and creamy.
Sift flower, baking powder and salt into another bowl, mix with grated lemon zest.
Add the dry ingredients, milk and eggs to the butter mixture and stir thoroughly until combined.
Spoon the batter into a buttered loaf tin or bundt pan.
Bake in the middle of a pre-heated 180 C oven for about 40 minutes.
Remove from the oven and let cool for about 5 minutes. Then carefully lift the cake out of the tin and place on a large piece of foil.
Mix lemon juice with icing sugar and drizzle over the warm cake. Wrap into the foil and let cool completely before serving.
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